Jacques Aston Martin’s First World Time Zone Chronograph Watch Appreciation
The worst conditions in the Jurassic Mountains in Switzerland are probably the Ru Valley. Even under such harsh conditions, there is still a predator in the watchmaking industry flourishing in the Ru Valley. Arise, it is Jaeger-LeCoultre. Jaeger-LeCoultre watchmaking has always maintained itself as the defender of traditional watchmaking technology. With outstanding quality, innovative concepts and delicate workmanship, it has become a leader in the watch industry.
Jaeger-LeCoultre has also been cooperating with the automotive industry. In 2010, at the fifth anniversary of the cooperation between Jaeger-LeCoultre and top racing brand Aston Martin, Jaeger-LeCoultre launched the Amvox5 World Chronograph, a world-renowned timepiece The Amvox series is inspired by the brand’s Memovox diving watch, featuring a historic racing 270-degree chronograph design, and this world time zone watch is the first wrist in the Amvox5 series to integrate chronograph and world time functions. The watch also uses this design. At the same time, in the interweaving of the two brands’ different cultures, the watch models show extraordinary charm, which is indeed a masterpiece of watchmaking.
The cooperation between Jaeger-LeCoultre and racing brand Aston Martin is facilitated by the historical origins between the two industry giants and the infinite pursuit of value and perfect craftsmanship. Therefore, on this Jaeger-LeCoultre Amvox5 series 193J471 watch, you can see very obvious racing elements. Passion, technology, craftsmanship, and avant-garde are my first feelings for this watch.
The case of this watch is made of high-tech ceramics and titanium. These two materials are widely used in the racing field. They are light and stable. High-tech ceramics are mixed with zirconium and yttrium oxide in 2000. It is calcined under high temperature and high pressure conditions, and then carefully polished into the shape of the case with special tools covered with diamond crystals, which shows that it requires a very high level of technology. The watch’s frame and lugs are made of high-tech ceramics, while the bezel, hands, scales, crown, buttons, and case back are made of titanium. The overall quality is lighter than that of rose gold.
In addition to the materials, the design style of the watch is more worthy of appreciation. The first is a 270-degree time scale layout with a racing dashboard style. This layout instantly integrates itself into the racing cab. The small dial layout at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock, combined with the hollow design in the middle of the dial, shows the beauty of the mechanical process and the reasonable layout. Of course, among these two small dials, the most distinctive feature is the white pointer in the middle. Not to mention that it can easily read the time. More importantly, it also has a strong dashboard style, and The design of the dashboard focuses on the instrument panel, highlighting the passion of the car for speed.
In addition, the underlining of the dial uses the grid pattern of the Aston Martin racing radiator grille, which is full of movement, and the case back is sealed. This is somewhat regrettable. I could n’t appreciate the beauty of the movement. On the case back, It is engraved with V12 Vantage, which is also a highlight of the connection between the Jaeger-LeCoultre brand and Aston Martin. It also clearly reflects the inspiration of this watch. Yes, this is the classic V12 Vantage model of Aston Martin. .
Function is the external manifestation of the watch movement, and it is also a visual recognition of the complexity of the watch. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Amvox5 193J471 world time zone chronograph watch has a number of functions and has become a classic work in the altar. It can enter the eyes of ‘Iron Man’ actor Robert Downey Jr., of course, it is not likely to be a vase, except for its surface design. , The function is equally exciting.
The first is the world time function, which is essential for people who often need to travel around the world. Due to the differences in time around the world, the clear concept of time zones was defined at the International Warp Conference as early as the 19th century. The world is divided into 24 time zones with the prime meridian as the central meridian. The world time rule is not difficult to understand, but for a watch, it needs a gear train with sufficient accuracy to achieve it. At the same time, the hour hand needs to be advanced synchronously while changing the time zone. Having the world time function is equivalent to holding the world time in your hand.
The second is the chronograph function. The chronograph function is completed by the central large chronograph second hand, 30-minute chronograph dial and 12-hour chronograph dial. The operations are performed by the buttons on both sides of the crown. The chronograph function is used to meet the needs of improving the accuracy of the watch. Above the watch should be the end of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century, when the urgent need to improve the accuracy of the travel time, and the chronograph function represented a model of the accuracy of the watch at that time. Timing is a very practical function for sports, especially for racing cars. They often need to be accurate to milliseconds and always use it. Therefore, the high precision of the timing has become a test of mechanical timing, and with modern watchmaking With the improvement of the level, the accuracy of parts can be reached to the timing standard.
Once again, the power reserve display is located at 6 o’clock on the dial. Its position is not very obvious, and it is difficult to find without careful observation. The power reserve display function can provide the current barrel power reserve status in real time. For a chronograph watch, it is necessary to grasp the power situation at any time. The adjustment of the timekeeping and world time usually consumes more power. When the amount of arm swing is not large enough, the automatic winding cannot meet the power requirements of the watch that is often played, so the power reserve display function becomes very necessary.
Finally, there is the calendar function. This calendar function is also just an ordinary calendar function. It cannot recognize large and small months, so it needs to be adjusted every two months. In addition, it does not have fast jump, instant jump and other structures, so it is at midnight. It also fails to change the date quickly.
Overall, its functions are quite rich, and it is also the first time that Jaeger-LeCoultre put the world time and chronograph module in a watch at the same time. Jaeger-LeCoultre replaces London with Gaydon, the birthplace of Aston Martin on the world time zone scale, which also shows their sincere cooperation.
The smooth presentation of external functions and easy operation are inseparable from a high-precision movement. The movement is the heart of the watch and it determines the quality of the watch.
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Amvox5 series 193J471 watch uses the Cal.752 movement produced by Jaeger-LeCoultre. This movement is a self-winding mechanical movement with a vibration frequency of 4hz, which is the current mainstream frequency. This movement has two mainsprings and a power reserve of 65 hours. For the self-winding movement, it has two difficulties. One is how to store the two-way swing energy generated by the automatic oscillating weight in the barrel, and the other is how to resolve the barrel when the energy is full. The next transformed energy. Of course, these two problems have been solved at present. Advanced automatic movements generally have two-way winding components, while ordinary ones may use single-uplink components. The two-way is obviously more efficient and more difficult. As for the energy conversion problem in the barrel, when the barrel is full of energy, the spring inside the barrel will drive the internal frame to rotate, thereby eliminating the constant input of energy.
The Jaeger-LeCoultre movement has a very fine polishing and uses Kif shock absorbers to withstand strong external shocks. At the same time, the column wheel is used to control the timing function. The column wheel makes the timing movement smoother and can be easily pressed when the button is pressed. The ordinary movement may use a cam device instead. The column wheel is generally used for advanced movements, especially the column wheel with more ‘lobes’.
In addition, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s movements have passed 1000 hours of internal testing, including multi-directional content, which is much higher than the official test range prescribed by the government. And this detection system is proprietary to Jaeger-LeCoultre and is a control of the quality of the movement and even the quality of the entire watch.
Along with the popular release of ‘Iron Man 3’ some time ago, Robert Downey Jr., who played a humorous hero, was once again alive, and he was wearing the Jaeger-LeCoultre Amvox5 at the film premiere held in South Korea. Series 193J471 watch. This fifth product from Jaeger-LeCoultre and Aston Martin is a commemorative model for the 5th anniversary of the two collaborations. It is limited to 300 pieces, in addition to rose gold, which is limited to 200 pieces. This entire series of Jaeger-LeCoultre is the essence of the two collaborations, the exchange of craftsmanship, ideas and culture. This 193J471 watch is derived from the 270-degree scale layout of the racing car, the small dial-style hands of the dashboard, the checkered front grille of the classic V12 Vantage model and the outstanding 752 movement. This watch can be said to be a classic product after the cross-border cooperation between the watch industry and the automotive industry. It is the first outstanding work of Jaeger-LeCoultre to combine world time and chronograph, and it conveys brilliant works of passion, technology and craftsmanship.
Watch details: lecoultre / 3787 /