Now sports watches are particularly favored by watch friends in the market, thief fire, especially boy paper, after all, sports watches are very good in terms of playing cool and performance. The three top sports watches in the watchmaking world, Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak, Patek Philippe’s Nautilus and Vacheron Constantin, are all very clear. Today I want to talk about the vertical and horizontal directions of Vacheron Constantin. At the beginning of the Geneva International High-level Watch and Clock Fair, Vacheron Constantin added new horizontal and vertical models, covering entry-level models to complex models.
Today I want to talk about this perpetual calendar model. In 2016 and last year, Vacheron Constantin already launched the perpetual calendar models. This year, different color matching and metal straps have been added. The models basically continue the third-generation classic design that was launched in 2016. The modified Maltese cross bezel, the quick-change strap system, etc. are all features of the world.
The origins of the world
Vacheron Constantin 222
Although Vacheron Constantin’s vertical and horizontal appearance appeared in 1996, the former model of the horizontal and vertical appearance is “222”. After the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak series came out in the 1970s, although it began to be questioned, time proved its importance. Vacheron Constantin’s ‘222’ was also born at that time, but in the 1980s, this Vacheron Constantin 222 was born because of Unsatisfactory sales led to the suspension of production.
Vacheron Constantin first generation
In 1996, Vacheron Constantin took the essence of the previous ‘222’, the later ‘333’ and ‘Phidias’ and merged them into the first generation. In the first generation, we can already see the eye-catching Maltese cross bezel. The second generation was readjusted and changed in 2004. The bracelet was made into a Maltese cross shape, which increased the diameter of the watch, and Vacheron Constantin’s iconic ‘Malta Cross’ taste was aggravated again. The third generation is familiar to everyone, and the changes are also very large. The most intuitive thing is that the bezel has changed from 8 teeth to 6 teeth. The very convenient and quick-changeable strap system is also in the third generation. Appeared on the body, the movement also switched to the brand’s own production movement. The third generation of design has continued to this day.
Perpetual calendar this year
I have to say that this year’s blue and green colors are very hot, Vacheron Constantin has added a blue dial. The blue and white chronographs and chronographs have been released before, and this year’s perpetual calendar has also followed the blue dial (of course, the tourbillon also has a new blue dial).
The texture of the disc surface has a semi-transparent feel, which looks more moist, and the minute scale circle is more special, which is biased towards the velvet texture. Under different light, the color of the disk will also change. For example, the color of the disk is dark when indoors, and the blue of the disk is beautiful under the conditions of sufficient outdoor light. At the same time, we can also notice that the moon phase disk and three The blue of the function plate is different from the blue of the plate. The three functional plates on the surface of the plate are actually decorated with snail patterns, forming a distinction from other parts of the plate. The arrangement of the function disk and the previous horizontal and vertical perpetual calendar models have basically remained unchanged. The display panels of the month, date, day of the week, and moon phases are all distributed at 12 o’clock, 3 o’clock, 6 o’clock, and 9 o’clock, basically maintaining the original the design of.
The horizontal and vertical sea is essentially a luxury sports watch, but since the launch of the perpetual calendar models have been made of precious metal materials, the 41.5 mm diameter is relatively common in sports watches, but the thickness of the vertical and horizontal sea is very thin, only 8.1 mm This is the thinnest of the brand’s perpetual calendar models. The slim model reduces the sense of weight.
There is also a very user-friendly feature of the horizontal and vertical seas. After making adjustments in 2016, a quick-replaceable strap system was added. Although this design is not uncommon now, Vacheron Constantin is the first time to use the horizontal and vertical seas. We do n’t need any tools to switch between different material straps, such as steel chains, belts, and rubber straps. This design allows the watch to have a different style, and a watch can Get a different style.
As for the caliber perpetual calendar, the previous two generations did not use the self-produced movement. It was not until the third generation that the self-produced movement was used. Still using the VC1120 movement. This movement was jointly developed by Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet and Jaeger-LeCoultre. Previously, the ultra-thin perpetual calendar of Audemars Piguet and this movement of Vacheron Constantin were the same basic movement. This movement is very thin, only 4.05 mm, creating an ultra-thin and lightweight watch, certified by the Geneva mark, and has a power reserve of 40 hours.
Previous Vacheron Constantin 5XXX series movements, such as 5100, 5200, 5500 movements, have been used in chronograph, junior hand, two places and other watches, this time although there is no perpetual calendar version, but think about it, popular It can be said that the perpetual calendar is a matter of time. However, there is a problem here. The movement of this series is too large compared to the VC1120 movement. If it is placed on a perpetual calendar, the thickness is estimated to be more than 10 mm. In this case, the ultra-thin effect may not be achieved. Like this watch, even if the perpetual calendar is added, the thickness is controlled at 8.1 mm. Therefore, ultra-thin perpetual calendar models may still use the VC1120 movement, whether the 5XXX series is necessary to add a perpetual calendar version is hard to say.
When it comes to prices, you may want to look at your deposit and calm down. The public price of the 18K5N pink gold blue disc model is 59W, and the price of the platinum model is of course higher, 73W. After calming down, by the way, look at Vacheron Constantin this year also released another particularly powerful Traditionnelle series dual core rate perpetual calendar watch, I wanted to write it before, but it is really complicated, this watch, can be said A perpetual calendar watch that is closer to ‘permanent use’, this well-crafted ‘dazzling technique’! Vacheron Constantin also launched a new model of Wu Luzhi this year. The entry-level junior needle uses a stainless steel case, and the public price is controlled within 100,000. If you want to start, you can start with Wu Lu. (Picture / text watch home Wu Fengqi)